The Rolex Submariner – A Dive Watch Legend
A scuba-inspired timepiece that could endure the harshest of field testing. It’s no surprise that Rolex’s most iconic diver has been so popular and successful.
During testing, the Submariner survived 132 dives between 12 and 60 meters in depth. During this period, it also received a few slight changes, most notably a reshaped bezel that was easier to grip with gloves.
Origins
The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic dive watches ever created. A true icon, it has a minimalism that goes well with everything from jeans and a t-shirt to a perfectly tailored tuxedo. The elegance of the design, combined with the inherent durability borne out of its structure from the inside out, has made it an ideal companion for all manner of water activities and even a number of demanding professions.
The story of the Submariner actually began long before it hit the market, with Rolex tackling the issue of waterproofing its wristwatches almost from the very beginning of the brand. The breakthrough came in 1926 with the launch of the Oyster case, a groundbreaking innovation that turned the wristwatch from a luxury accessory into a tool that could be worn under even the most demanding conditions.
It was a watch that was built to last, and it was a design that would be hailed as a game changer, ushering in the first true golden age of sports watches. This period saw the release of a series of legendary references, all launched within a few years of each other and bringing with them a whole host of improvements.
Among these were sapphire crystal, improved movements and increased water resistance for some models. It was a remarkable time for Rolex and the launch of the Submariner marked just the start of its reign at the top of the dive watch food chain.
The OG Rolex Submariner, officially announced in 1954 and available to buy the following year, is still instantly recognisable today. With a glossy gilt dial and a slimmer case, the Submariner had no crown guards and used a 5.3mm crown. It was powered by the Cal. 1530 and was available as a chronometer or non-chronometer model.
Rolex quickly found itself with military clients knocking at its door, and as early as 1956 the British Ministry of Defense was looking for a new standard-issue dive watch to use on their special forces training programmes. Rolex was quick to offer up the ref. 6538, and the submariner became the world’s first truly mainstream waterproof watch.
Evolution
While Rolex had been tackling the issue of water resistance since the brand’s formation, it was the development of the Oyster case in 1926 that really allowed them to hone in on creating wristwatches that could truly be worn in demanding circumstances. It was the perfect platform to develop a purpose-built dive watch. In 1954, at the Basel fair (now known as BaselWorld), a prototype of what would become the Submariner was unveiled to the public. The model was a big hit and was soon in high demand from both professional divers and civilian wearers who wanted a timepiece that could stand up to everyday use in a variety of different challenging conditions.
Rolex continued to refine the design and in 1957, the MOD returned with a request for some minor adjustments. Rolex listened and the reference 5512 was born, featuring crown guards to protect the winding crown and a slightly reshaped bezel that made it easier for Navy divers to turn using gloves. It is also this reference that saw the first appearance of the name “Submariner” printed above 6 o’clock on the dial.
Over the next 50 years, Rolex released a number of iterations of the Submariner that all built on the successes of the previous models. By 1962, they had developed the Reference 5513 which was rated to 1000 meters and had an interchangeable bezel system. It was during this period that the iconic black bezel and dial of today’s Submariner was introduced.
Even with the evolution of new technologies, advancements in movement technology and design, the basic look and feel of the Rolex Submariner has been preserved and cherished. It is a design that has transcended the status of just being a sports watch, it’s become an icon that represents attainment and luxury.
As of 2020, there are eight new Rolex Submariner Date models available and each features the classic Oyster case that is now 41 mm in size. Each also includes a ceramic bezel, the latest-generation Caliber 3135 movement and a dial that is easily legible under various lighting conditions.
Technical features
The Rolex Submariner is a true tool watch. Its sophisticated minimalism complements everything from wetsuits to perfectly tailored tuxedos, as exemplified by its greatest advertisement: James Bond. The first eight Bond films featured the Rolex Submariner, pairing it with both casual jeans and tuxedos. The model itself has been updated with modern technical features, but it retains the same basic design.
The Submariner’s crown guards are a prominent feature that protect the winding crown on the side of the case. These were added in 1959 to protect the crown from impacts and shocks that could accidentally unwind the watch while underwater or during dive activities. The Submariner’s bezel is another important feature, used to time bottom or decompression stops and providing a vital piece of information to divers. This bezel was also the first to use a unidirectional rotating mechanism that only allowed one way movement and prevented divers from overestimating their immersion times.
Like many watches, the Submariner had its fair share of technical problems in the ’50s and ’60s. But a few key innovations ushered in an era of stability that continued with the ref. 5512 in 1959. The bezel was reshaped to make it easier for Navy divers to turn while wearing gloves, and the luminous insert was switched from radium to the more durable zinc sulfide known as tritium.
The crown – the winding mechanism found on the top of the case, typically beside the 3 o’clock marker – was another area where the Submariner underwent some major changes in its design. In response to calls that the 40mm case was too small for a modern sports watch, Rolex introduced its Super Case in the Submariner ref. 1266xx series, with broader lugs and crown guards to give the watch a beefier appearance. This change was a hit with some fans, but others were upset that the case had grown and missed the flowing lines of references past.
Rolex isn’t shy about updating its popular models, and in 2020, the company announced eight new Submariner models with slightly larger 41mm cases. These all sported new Oyster case designs and were fitted with brand-new in-house movements, the calibers 3230 powering the no-date models and 3235 running the date versions of these iconic watches.
Style
While the Submariner was an outgrowth of Rolex’s water-resistant Oyster cased watches from the 1930s and 1940s, it emerged largely fully formed. It exhibited all of the classic markers that make it so recognizable, such as the inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock position; Mercedes-style sports hands; complete markings on a redesigned bezel; and the screw-down crown. It was a timepiece that Hans Wilsdorf would have been proud of and a watch that a modern diver could be comfortable wearing beneath the sea.
The Submariner also came equipped with a special feature that allowed divers to easily set the date, a vital function for military and commercial divers who had to keep track of dive times. To do so, the redesigned bezel featured a new type of marker called a “Lunar arrow” which was shaped like an inverted “T.” A small window displayed the date on the dial, and the crown was now protected by a screw-down crown protector.
A major turning point came in 1956 when Rolex enlisted the help of the legendary oceanographer and explorer Jacques Cousteau to test the Submariner’s waterproofness. The watch was tethered to a cable and dropped into the deep sea, and after several hours of diving, no water ingress was found.
Soon after, the French diving specialists at Compagnie Maritime d’Expertisses (COMEX) ordered Rolex to produce a series of Submariners for their use during explorations. The reference 6538 was the first of these models and it was worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in the 1962 film Dr No. This was a big boost to the popularity of the model.
Submariners continued to evolve throughout the 1950s and 1960s, gaining in popularity with real-life divers and with moviegoers eager to see their heroes wear Rolex timepieces on screen. The submariner’s minimalist style and timeless appeal made it a fashion accessory that went with everything from t-shirts to perfectly tailored tuxedos.
Today, the Rolex Submariner is still as popular as ever and remains one of the most iconic dive watches in the world. A new Submariner will cost you between $8,100 and $40,000 depending on the material and model you choose, with precious metals and gemstone versions priced even higher. While the price tag may seem a bit steep, a pre-owned Rolex Submariner can be obtained for around $10,000.
